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Article
by Tor Pinney
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THE TRUTH ABOUT CRUISING
Coping with the "Down Side" of the Cruising Life
© 1993 Tor Pinney - All
Rights Reserved
There are few human endeavors more rewarding than cruising under sail.
The thrill of a fast reach across the trades, the peace of an idyllic
harbor, the novelty of living aboard your floating home in a new places.
It's a lifestyle rich and varied in experience.
At the same time, the cruising life presents some unique
challenges. Cruising, especially long-term, isn't all blue skies and
cocktails at sunset. Unless you're mentally prepared for the
"other" side of cruising, the down side, you may find yourself
unnecessarily disappointed. Let's take a look at some of the most common
pitfalls cruisers face, and what can be done about them.
Bad Weather
One of the most daunting aspects of cruising, particularly offshore, is
bad weather. No matter how many forecasts you tune in, heavy weather and
head winds are an inevitable fact of the cruising life once you venture
far from land. Three days into a gale at sea, under gray skies and wet
decks, cruising doesn't seem quite so glamorous anymore. (I often find
myself dreaming of a cozy log cabin in the woods!) The truth is, being
cooped up on a boat during long spells of bad weather can be really
depressing.
Then, just when things seem bad enough, the twin devils, fear and
seasickness, clamor aboard to torture and dispirit even the most stalwart
crew. Even if you're lucky enough to be in port when the weather
deteriorates, cabin fever, concern for the boat and, sometimes, a rolly
mooring can take much of the romance out of living aboard.
However, there are ways to take some of the punch out of a bad day at
sea. It's common sense to reduce sail at the first sign of deteriorating
weather, and to do everything you can to ensure the boat rides safely.
This alone alleviates some of the initial anxiety. But if the motion is
still harsh, tuck in an extra reef to slow the boat down further. So what
if you get to your distant destination a few hours or a few days later!
Increased safety, comfort and crew morale are more important aboard a
cruising boat than an extra knot of speed. This is especially true if
you're bashing to windward offshore. Ease off a bit on the sheets and on
the heading to reduce the pounding. If the weather is really nasty,
heave-to and wait it out. Be kind to your boat, your crew and yourself;
don't push harder than absolutely necessary in bad weather. And don't
yell.
Cooking in a gale isn't much fun, either. Before encountering bad
weather, prepare some pre- cooked meals that can be heated up quickly. A
good, hot meal can make the wet world outside more tolerable. Afterwards,
clean up the dishes even if you don't really feel like it. And straighten
up the cabin. A depression is less depressing if your living space is in
order.
Once the boat is riding safely, the best thing to do in heavy weather
is to go below and relax. Make some tea, play some music, read a book,
make love, take a nap - and keep reminding yourself that all storms do
eventually end.
Fear
Being afraid at sea, especially in rough weather, is perfectly normal
and much more common than many will admit. Fear of the unknown (How much
worse is the weather going to get?) and fear of death (How much can this
boat really take?) can turn a squall into a nightmare, especially for the
uninitiated.
Weather forecasts, received via VHF, short wave radio or weatherfax,
are reassuring - even when they're bad! They take the mystery out of a
storm, giving you an idea of whether or not it is likely to get worse and,
best of all, when it'll end. Fear of foundering usually comes from lack of
confidence in the vessel, in the captain, or in both. Only time and
experience build confidence. The second storm isn't quite as scary as the
first, and the tenth, while still no fun, is almost routine.
Seasickness, that universal mariners' curse, has spoiled many a cruise.
For those afflicted, it turns passage making into a dreaded burden, and
adversely effects judgement at sea. Today there are many remedies
available. Find one that works for you and use it before you get ill!
Boredom
One of the most surprising truths about cruising is that you can become
bored doing it. Now wait a minute, I didn't say that cruising is boring!
But boredom can and does creep aboard when the voyaging spans months or
years, rather than brief holidays. You can only trim so many sails, comb
so many beaches, read so many paperbacks, and toast so many sunsets before
it all starts to seem - well, commonplace.
One common reason for this isn't so surprising when you think about it.
Most people who actually manage to cast off and go cruising today have
worked long and hard to get there. Many are retired or taking a break from
active, stimulating careers. Suddenly, they have an unaccustomed amount of
leisure time on their hands. Oh, there's the sailing, the sightseeing and
the daily chores and boat maintenance - more than enough to fill the
hours. But the fact is, those of us who are products of a work ethic
society have a need to feel productive. I don't mean we have to
"work" everyday, but in order to feel good about ourselves, we
need to feel like we're accomplishing something useful. Too many people
give up cruising, feeling depressed and dissatisfied, without realizing
why they feel that way. This is particularly true of mates who have
"gone along" with their spouse's cruising dream, but really
aren't all that keen on it themselves. It's not the cruising that's
boring. Cruising is, or can be, forever stimulating! It's the lack of
feeling productive that gets some people down, and once you're aware of
this potential threat there's plenty you can do about it. But it takes a
conscious effort on your part.
By being productive I don't necessarily mean earning money. Developing
hobbies or interests such as writing, painting, or playing a musical
instrument can give added meaning to life afloat. Continuing your studies,
perhaps through university correspondence courses, may be especially
rewarding. Or consider jewelry design, woodcarving or any of a score of
other handicrafts. Computer programming, shell collecting, canvas sewing -
virtually anything that's portable enough to do aboard a boat is a
positive, potential cure for boredom. Of course, working at a trade as you
travel, even if it means stopping from time to time, has the added benefit
of boosting the cruising kitty. Perhaps more importantly, the sheer
contrast of "going to work" for periods of time will refresh
your appreciation of the lazier life under sail.
In fact, contrast is often the other key to successful, long-term
cruising. For example, getting away from the boat every so often will keep
your appreciation level high. Taking seasonal or annual sabbaticals from
living aboard definitely cures cruising boredom. You'll soon discover that
the best part of leaving your boat is coming back to her again!
Isolation
The cruising life can be a very solitary existence. When living in
remote and foreign places, cultural and language differences may isolate
you from the local population. Periodic feelings of isolation and
loneliness are almost universal, especially among single-handers, although
cruising couples and even families are not immune. Everybody gets the
cruising blues sometimes.
There are, however, some practical remedies. For some, a compromise
cruising schedule is an ideal cure. Six (or four or eight) months sailing,
alternated with similar periods of time staying put (either ashore or
afloat) allows you to satisfy the gypsy itch, yet still provides plenty of
time for nurturing valuable human relationships ashore. This can be
especially important to the children of cruising families.
Alternatively, having friends and family come to visit you aboard is
not only a way to share your unique lifestyle with them, but it breaks up
the (dare I say it?) monotony of 24-hour-a-day, close-quarters living with
your regular mate(s). So do brief vacation visits home, with the boat
stored safely in a marina or boat yard.
A fun way to combat cruising isolation is by sailing in tandem with one
or more other yachts. Whether you set off as a group, or meet some
compatible cruisers along the way and decide to continue on together, your
social life will be multiplied ten-fold by cruising in company. As a
bonus, this arrangement provides an added safety margin for everyone.
Aboard as ashore, a pet is always a great antidote for loneliness. So
are regular phone calls home. Many countries today offer AT&T USA
DIRECT and MCI CALL USA, telephone services that make calling the States
fast, easy and reasonable from many public telephones abroad.
Lastly, there is a growing number of sailors' social clubs available on
various radio nets. For local camaraderie, just ask other sailors you meet
if there is a particular VHF frequency and time that area boaters get
together. Licensed Ham operators enjoy access to maritime mobile and
land-based nets worldwide for communicating with kindred spirits. There
are also many less formal, regional maritime nets on single sideband
frequencies which do not require a Ham license to join in. Although the
SSB nets may discuss weather forecasts and useful travel information,
their primary function is usually social. It's a chance for cruising
sailors to chat, schedule rendezvous' and, in general, to keep in touch
with each other.
Hard Work
Another unpublicized truth about the cruising life is the huge amount
of work and attention a boat requires. Every cruising sailor is, in a
sense, a slave to his vessel. Even if you start out with a brand new boat
and equipment, the list of maintenance and repair chores is literally
never-ending. If the boat is old, the list is even longer. The fact is, I
don't know any cruiser who can honestly say, "I have absolutely
nothing that I could be doing for the boat today!"
Boat maintenance is necessary; it can even be gratifying. But be
careful that it doesn't overwhelm you and spoil your trip. You'll do well
to prioritize the jobs, dealing with essential maintenance and repairs
right away, and scheduling time for less urgent tasks at regular
intervals. I find it easier to stop periodically, settle into a pleasant
port, and work full time on the boat for a few days or weeks to catch up.
Then, with many jobs accomplished and a clear conscience, I can relax and
enjoy the leisure time I've created for sailing, exploring and writing.
When chores seem to pile up, I occasionally hire a local to help with
the simpler tasks, like scrubbing and oiling the teak or waxing the hull.
Of course, when I'm sailing with crew aboard, everybody pitches in and the
jobs get done more quickly.
Once in a while it's a relief to get away from boat chores entirely.
With your vessel securely moored or dry-docked, ideally with someone
keeping an eye on her, you're free to leave for awhile and devote your
full attention to inland sightseeing and other interests. Remember: you
own your boat; don't let it own you!
Foreign Stuff
Visiting foreign lands aboard our floating home is one of the prime
reasons most of us go cruising. On the plus side is the thrill of
discovering remarkable places, meeting different people, learning their
customs, trying new foods, and experiencing it all from the comfortable
base of your own floating home.
But there are aspects of travel peculiar to boating that can try your
patience. Clearing in with the various government authorities is, at
times, an onerous, time consuming effort. Customs, immigration, the port
captain, the National Guard, the police, the coast guard and all the
king's men may require separate visits, each with forms to be completed
and stamped in triplicate. Rarely are they all in the same building, nor
even in the same part of town! Orderly ship's paperwork and a patient,
friendly attitude are your best defenses against bureaucratic tedium.
Receiving mail is another snag in paradise. It's not uncommon to go for
months between successful mail drops while cruising abroad. Often a mail
packet containing your precious, accumulated correspondence will arrive in
the country only to be stalled at a customs warehouse somewhere, waiting -
sometimes for months! - to be inspected for contraband. Or the packet may
never arrive at all.
In many larger ports you can take advantage of international courier
services such as DHL and Federal Express to get the mail packets through.
They're expensive but they usually work, and quickly!
Homeward bound mail posted from many Third World countries stands,
maybe, a 50/50 chance of ever arriving. If you have a supply of your home
country's postage stamps aboard, you can often find a tourist willing to
carry your flat mail back with him, to be posted there with a much better
chance of reaching its destination.
As a rule, when cruising abroad it's only in the largest cities that
you'll find services for repairing things like electronics, sails and
machinery. Even then, locating replacement parts can be next to
impossible, and if you have repair parts shipped to you from home they may
be difficult to retrieve. It's true that a vessel in transit is almost
universally exempt from paying import duty on equipment that is shipped in
to be used on the boat. But it's often difficult - sometimes impossible -
to explain that to a customs official who doesn't speak your language, nor
share your interpretation of international maritime law.
It's best to prepare for the inevitable breakdowns before leaving home
waters. Stock up on complete spare parts, warranty cards and service
manuals (not just owner's manuals!) for every single essential device on
the boat. Thus provisioned, even in some smaller towns you may then find a
competent repairman who can help because you're able to provide the
necessary manuals and materials.
The Truth
The cruising life can be stimulating, peaceful, fun and endlessly
rewarding. It can be, and often is, everything you've dreamed and more!
Still it is life, which by its very nature includes challenges and
pitfalls. To set sail with the idea that you're leaving all your troubles
behind is to blow a bubble that is destined to burst. Be aware, be
prepared and be realistic. Add to that a positive mental attitude, and
you'll discover the real truth about the cruising life: that while it is
not always perfect, it just may be life at its best!
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End ~
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